• Patching Denims

    Posted on 3rd June 2015 by Shelley in Tailoring & Sewing.

    Patching Denim Jeans

    First get your spare denim fabric out and chose the best match for this particular pair of jeans.  Cut out the fabric bigger than the size you’re going to need, especially if it’s around the crotch area, as it can be a bit tricky.  Do the same thing if it’s a jacket around the armhole, but today we’re mending the worn crotch area and the edge of a back pocket on gent’s jeans.                                                   

    Patch work

    Crotch pinned on wrong side

       Place your fabric onto the spot to be mended and pin to the wrong side,checking that you are covering the area you want, it doesn’t have to be great it is just a place to start.                                                                                                                                                                           

     

    Pinning right side crotch
    Pinning right side crotch

    Lay them flat making sure the right side is facing you with no gathers in the jeans or patched fabric and pin on the right side.                                                     

    Sewing
    Sewing edge of pocket

      Place pins far from the hole so you can get your machine foot in there and then remove pins from the wrong side, leaving the right side pins in place.                                                                                                                                           

     

    Sewing denim
    Choosing your thread

     Take a selection of about 5 different coloured threads and place them on top of the jeans, pulling out a strand of each so you can tell how they all look.  I’m often surprised by the colour that goes best.  I think the grey or the navy go best for this weave of denim.

    sewing
    Finished pocket patch

    Sew on the right side of the fabric so you can see what you are doing, and make sure you cover the correct area.  When sewing, stitch in the direction of the weave even if your fabric is frayed, it won’t make much difference if there’s a big hole.  It also depends if you want to make a statement with your patch or if you want it to blend in. If this was dress jeans then I would have removed the pocket, made a dart where the hole is and then replaced the pocket over it.  Here, I ‘m showing you how to do a quick repair to a pair of ‘kick about jeans’.    

    Finished crotch patch
    Finished crotch patch

    When pinning an area like the crotch (please make sure your gent is not wearing them first!) you will have to allow for ease, as it’s an awkward shape and this is where pinning your wrong side first helps.        

    Patch work
    Crotch pinned on wrong side

     

    It might mean when pinned that you need to snip a bit of the patch fabric to get that bit of ease and sew it down well.  I always sew a lot of lines when patching denim because it takes a lot of wear, and you don’t want to have to do it again in a month’s time. 

                                                                                                             

    Gents denims patchwork
    Pocket patch before cutting

    Finally trim the spare fabric from each patch by cutting in close to your sewn lines.  You can do this without worry if you have sewn over the patch a lot as described.  

    sewing
    Pocket patch after cutting
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